Fashion and the royals: Valentino

On 2 February 2002, Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands married Máxima. 
The bride wore a beautiful wedding dress made by Valentino.

Who is this wonderful fashion designer, which is the history of this house
and which are/were the royal clients? Check it in this fashion blog post.


Who is Valentino?


Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani (born 11 May 1932),
known  as Valentino, is an Italian fashion designer
and the founder of the Valentino brand and company. 

Valentino was born in Voghera, in the province of Pavia, Lombardy, Italy.
His mother named him after screen idol Rudolph Valentino. He became
interested in fashion while in primary school in his native Voghera,
Lombardy, northern Italy, when he apprenticed under his aunt Rosa
and local designer Ernestina Salvadeo, an aunt of noted artist Aldo Giorgini.

Valentino then moved to Paris to pursue this interest with the help of his
mother Teresa de Biaggi and his father Mauro Garavani. There he studied
at the École des Beaux-Arts and at the Chambre Syndicale de la
Couture Parisienne.


book cover



Fashion history



His first choice for an apprenticeship, in Paris, was Jacques Fath,
then Balenciaga. He found an apprenticeship with Jean Dessès where he
helped Countess Jacqueline de Ribes sketch her dress ideas. He then joined
Guy Laroche for two years. 

At a Rome exhibition in 1991 a smattering of them went on
display and then-current clients such as Marie-Hélène de Rothschild
and Elizabeth Taylor marvelled that the DNA of Valentino's
style was already apparent in the layers of white pleats and animal prints.

After five years, Valentino left Jean Dessès over an incident about prolonging
a vacation in Saint-Tropez that still makes him uncomfortable today.
Rescued by his friend Guy Laroche, he joined his "tiny, tiny" fashion house.
After discussions with his parents, he decided to return to Italy and set up in
Rome in 1959, as pupil of Emilio Schuberth and then collaborated with
Vincenzo Ferdinandi's atelier before opening his own fashion house.

In 1960 Valentino left Paris and opened a fashion house in Rome on
the posh Via Condotti with the backing of his father and an associate of his.
More than an atelier, the premises resembled a real "maison de haute couture".
Everything was very grand and models flew in from Paris for his first show.
Valentino became known for his red dresses, in the bright shade that became
known in the fashion industry as "Valentino red".



On 31 July 1960, Valentino met Giancarlo Giammetti at the Café de Paris
on the Via Veneto in Rome. One of three children, Giammetti was in his
second year of architecture school, living at home with his parents in the
haut bourgeois Parioli section of Northern Rome. That day Giammetti gave
Valentino a lift home in his Fiat and a friendship, as well as a long-lasting
partnership, started. The day after, Giammetti was to leave for Capri for
vacation and, by coincidence, Valentino was also going there, so they met
again on the island 10 days later. Giammetti would shortly thereafter abandon
the University to become Valentino's business and life partner. When
Giammetti arrived, the business situation of Valentino's atelier was in
fact not brilliant: in one year he had spent so much money that his father's
associate pulled out of the business, and had to fight against bankruptcy.

At some point in 1964, Jacqueline Kennedy had seen Gloria Schiff, the twin
sister of the Rome-based fashion editor of American Vogue and Valentino's
friend Consuelo Crespi, wearing a two-piece ensemble in black organza at
a gathering. 



Jacqueline Kennedy at a diner at the White House
Source picture: Wikipedia
 


In September 1964, Valentino was to be in the United States to present
a collection of his work at a charity ball at New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.
Mrs. Kennedy wanted to view the collection but could not attend the event,
so Valentino decided to send a model, sales representative and a selection of
key pieces from his collection to Mrs. Kennedy's apartment on Fifth Avenue. 

Mrs. Kennedy ordered six of his haute couture dresses, all in black and white,
and wore them during her year of mourning following President
John F. Kennedy's assassination. 

Throughout the 1970s Valentino spent considerable time in New York City,
where his presence was embraced by society personalities such as Vogue's
editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland and the art icon Andy Warhol.

1990 marked the opening of the Accademia Valentino, designed by
architect Tommaso Ziffer, a cultural space located near Valentino's atelier
in Rome, for the presentation of art exhibitions. The next year, encouraged by
their friend Elizabeth Taylor, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti created
L.I.F.E., an association for the support of AIDS-related patients, which benefits from
the activities of the Accademia Valentino.

In 1998 Valentino and his partner Giancarlo Giammetti sold the company for
approximately US$300 million to HdP, an Italian conglomerate controlled, in part,
by the late Gianni Agnelli, the head of Fiat. In 2002, Valentino S.p.A., with revenues
of more than $180 million, was sold by HdP to Marzotto Apparel, a Milan-based
textile giant, for $210 million. Maison Valentino is controlled since 2012 by
Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C., a holding company sustained by a group
of private investors from Qatar. It is present in over 90 countries through
160 Valentino directly operated boutiques and over 1300 points of sale.




On 4 September 2007, Valentino announced that he would retire fully in
January 2008 from the world stage after his last haute couture show in Paris.
He delivered his last women's ready-to-wear show in Paris on 4 October.

His last haute couture show was presented in Paris at the Musée Rodin
on 23 January 2008. It was, however, somewhat marred by his criticism of
fellow Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana, and the death of Australian
actor Heath Ledger, although few allowed these things to detract from his
final show, which received a standing ovation from the entire audience
that included hundreds of notable names from all areas of show business.
Many models returned to attend Valentino's last haute couture show;
the audience included Eva Herzigová, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer,
Nadja Auermann, Karolína Kurková and Karen Mulder.

In 2012–2013 a major new exhibition opened at Somerset House in London
celebrating the life and work of Valentino, showcasing over 130 exquisite
haute couture designs.

In September 2007, Valentino decided to leave the Creative Direction of
his brand. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were first nominated
Creative Directors of all accessories lines, and the following year, they were
appointed Creative Directors of Valentino, guiding all collections, from
Prêt-à-Porter to Haute Couture. In June 2015 the Creative Directors were
bestowed with the prestigious CFDA International Award, recognition
that paid homage to the professional path and to the success of the Maison.
On 7 July 2016 Maison Valentino nominated Pierpaolo Piccioli its sole
Creative Director of the Maison.




Who are/were the royal clients of Valentino?


Belgium

When Prince Amedeo of Belgium married Elisabetta Rosboch von Wolkenstein
in Rome, the bride wore Valentino. More on this link

In 1966 a picture was taken when Queen Paola of Belgium (then Princess Paola)
left the Valentino Fashion House in Rome.

On the National Day in 2019 at the walk in the Warande Park in Brussels,
Queen Mathilde of Belgium wore a floral Valentino dress. More on this link


Denmark

Crown Princess Mary attended the Creative Summit 2021 by wearing a midi
skirt made by Valentino. More on this link


Jordan

Queen Rania of Jordan also has a Valentino gown in her royal collection.

Monaco

Princess Grace of Monaco sat at the front row of his fashion shows in the 70's.




Princess Charlene of Monaco also wore some Valentino dresses inter alia a 
red one.


Norway

Crown Princess Mette Marit of Norway often is spotted with a Valentino dress. 


Qatar

Sheika Mozah of Qatar often wears Valentino. 


Spain

Queen Letizia of Spain wore a Valentino dress made in the 1970's for her 
mother-in-law, Queen Sofia. See this link


Sweden

Princess Madeleine of Sweden also chose Valentino to design her wedding dress. 


The Netherlands

Máxima chose Valentino to design her Wedding Dress!!  They met each other
during the state visit to Italy. More about her wedding on this link

source picture: koninklijk huis


Princess Beatrix wore a dress made by Valentino silk.  


United Kingdom

Valentino was a friend of Diana, Princess of Wales. Of course she had a 
red Valentino dress too. See this link


Source picture: Wikipedia


Meghan, Duchess of Sussex also likes to wear Valentino. She wore a red
dress in Morocco. See this link


Conclusion


Real fashion always survives. It's nice to see how for example Queen Letizia
rewears an amazing beautiful dress from her mother-in-law Queen Sofia. I 
hope we'll see more Valentino in the future 


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